Cross Processing Color Guide


At times, we use different color tones to express different moods. For example, we will choose bright blue for joy, deep red for nostalgia, indigo for darker moods. Some films have similar color tones, you can choose according to your preferences. But there are still subtle differences and my article will discuss in greater details.

However, I would like to clarify something upfront:

  • Every x-pro film development is unique, even if the same film is used. Camera, lens, ambient lighting, ISO setting, lab used, etc. will affect the final results. Therefore, the chosen photos might not be the most beautiful. But I had included every possible shooting combination such as different sky colors, indoors/outdoors, cameras for your reference.
  • I had personally used all the films discussed below. But there are so many types of slide films out there. These are for reference purposes, you need to try out to see if you like the color shifts.
  • Photography is on a best effort basis, hence no price comparisons or hard sell here (wouldn't that take the fun out of photography?).

But first things first: what is cross-processing? Cross-processing (also known as 'x-pro') is the procedure of deliberately processing one type of film in a chemical solution intended for another type of film. As particular chemical solutions are optimized for specific kinds of film, you will get unpredictable and interesting results when they are combined differently. Now, let's move forward to the cross-processing color guide!


Agfa Precisa CT100 - The legendary Agfa slide film turns beautifully blue after x-pro. To be exact, it makes all colors vivid but natural. It is a great performer in both strong and low lights. Ever since production shifted from Europe to Japan, the colors turn more greenish, especially for night and indoor shots.

Photos taken with the EU-produced film. 1-3: Minox 35GT, 4: LC-A
Photos taken with the JP-produced film. 1-2: Natura Classica, 3-4: LC-A

Lomography X-Pro Chrome 100 - It makes all colors more vivid, without too much color shifts. You would be tempted to take random shots of the skies, the children, and continue right into the night! It is not affected by low light.

1-3: Sprocket Rocket, 4: LC-A

Kodak EliteChrome 100 - Similar to Agfa CT100, it is perfect for taking blue skies. Capturing portraits during sunny days will also look natural. Under the dim twilight lighting, colors will appear more natural. There are green color shifts for indoors and night shots, be careful if taking portraits.

1: LC-A , 2: Sprocket Rocket, 3-5: Nikon FM2


Fuji Sensia 200 - The greens of expired Sensia 200 feels comfortable, unlike the glaring greens when the film is fresh. There is a solemn mood when used in cloudy days. At night, it can express different colors and is not monotonous.

1: LC-Wide , 2-6: LC-A

Kodak EliteChrome 200 - The color shifts are in between green and blue. And the whole frame is filled with this depressing color tone. This gives the photo a vintage feel. When shot indoor, one color dominates, therefore the subject should be something with high contrasts.

1: LC-Wide , 2-4: Sprocket Rocket

Fuji Provia 400F - This is my most frequently used film. Besides the slight tinge of green color shifts, it is fast enough for different lighting conditions. Although not as vivid as X-Pro Chrome 100, there is a certain profound depth in the greenish blue skies. Despite the slight green cast, it is still suitable for portrait skin tones.

1-2: LC-Wide, 3: Diana F+ , 4: Natura Classica, 5: LC-A, 6: Holga 120 WPC, 7: Kiev 88

Fuji Provia100F - Under sunny conditions, it has greenish blue color shifts. On cloudy days, indoors and at night, it is bright green. Therefore, it is more suitable for the great outdoors.

1-2: Lubitel 166+, 3: LC-A , 4-5: Holga 120 WPC


Lomography X-Pro Slide 200 - At night, yellow is dominant! There is pale yellow color cast on sunny and cloudy days with a tinge of greens. Therefore, when using X-Pro 200, blue skies will appear a mesmerizing green.

1-3: Sprocket Rocket, 4: Lubitel 166+, 5: Minox 35GT


Fuji Velvia 100F - It is red hot, like burning orange color tones. On sunny days, vivid colored items will retain their colors while others will be painted red. Everything is red indoors and at night. Velvia 100F is great for expressing summer sensations or vintage feel of old neighborhoods.

1-2: LC-A , 3: LC-Wide

Fuji Sensia 100 - Its reds are deep reds. As if the skies are holding back some words, there won't be very strong feelings. It is orangey red when shot indoors. My personal opinion is that it is more suitable for landscape shots as it would be too red for portraits.

1-2: LC-A, 3: Minox 35GT

Fuji T64 - Its reds are pinkish red, just like looking at the world through a pair of pink sunglasses. Indoor and cloudy day shots will have a purple tinge, very warm feeling.

1: Holga 135BC, 2: LC-A, 3: Holga 120 WPC, 4: Lubitel 166+


Fuji Astia 100 - This is one of the rare films with purplish red color shifts. Under sunny conditions, it has a unique charm. Indoor and cloudy day shots will be dominated by purplish red color shifts, under lighting, it is closer to orange colors, like Sensia 100.

1: LC-Wide, 2-3: LC-A


Like I mentioned in the beginning, cross processing has too many variables. I can only provide an approximation. No point arguing with RGB values as each photo is uniquely yours! Enjoy the process of being surprised every time! I hope that after reading this, you will grab a suitable film before heading out!

Which film did you bring out today? P.S. I still want to try E100 series!

Check out our film catalog by visiting our online shop or one of our worldwide gallery stores stores!

written by singleelderly on 2012-05-25 #lifestyle #fuji-velvia-100f #fuji-sensia-200 #cross-processing #fuji-t64 #fuji-provia-100f #kodak-elite-chrome-200 #fuji-sensia-100 #fuji-astia-100 #fuji-provia-400f #kodak-elite-chrome-100 #agfa-ct100 #lomography-x-pro-slide-200 #lomography-x-pro-chrome-100


  1. icuresick
    icuresick ·

    Finally, translated to English! Thank you LSI!

  2. vicuna
    vicuna ·

    Great article!!

  3. guanatos
    guanatos ·

    this article is aweeesooomeeeee

  4. discodrew
    discodrew ·

    Great article. A real keeper to refference back too. Thanks for this.

  5. grazie
    grazie ·

    great article!!!

  6. el-perverso
    el-perverso ·

    I just packed an Agfa Precisia CT100 in my LC-A

  7. jessye
    jessye ·

    Ahhh thank you! Really wanted to get into cross processing but had no clue :) ta x

  8. asharnanae
    asharnanae ·

    great article! On the fuji T64 side, I used some expired 120 film and it gave me vivid purple/mauve in dull conditions and indoors using flash.

  9. adi_totp
    adi_totp ·

    great great great!

  10. megzeazez
    megzeazez ·

    Anyone know why my Provia 100F xpro photos always come out very red and pink?

  11. megzeazez
    megzeazez ·

    Ooops I'm shooting Velvia...found my own answer! :]

  12. ihave2pillows
    ihave2pillows ·

    Both my Precisa CT and Sensia turn green for some reason, whereas my Lomo X-tungsten is purple is daylight but redish at night...

  13. gvelasco
    gvelasco ·

    Great! Great! Article. Nice work.

  14. signals_pulsate
    signals_pulsate ·

    Wow I jus found this cross process wheel. Helpful

  15. superkulisap
    superkulisap ·

    very nice!

  16. thinkgeek
    thinkgeek ·

    why can't i translate this in other languages? O_o

  17. yijing
    yijing ·

    Really useful article for my reference. Superb!

  18. jeyku
    jeyku ·

    really interesting - nice article

  19. aoba
    aoba ·

    great article! very useful !!

  20. ugodelcorso
    ugodelcorso ·

    this is gold! thank you singleelderly

  21. domo-guy
    domo-guy ·

    I don't know whether its the processing or the weather, but most of my slide photos turn out reddish.. :( btw nice article!

  22. mazott
    mazott ·

    Awesome! I think Lomography X Tunsten 64 sits in the purple area.

  23. lawypop
    lawypop ·

    awesome info by @singleelderly and translated by @coolsigg !!

  24. ariannapaloma
    ariannapaloma ·

    GOD! This is the NEW BIBLE!!!! ;) awesome work, thank you!

  25. dreadlockboy
    dreadlockboy ·

    great article :)

  26. erikagrendel
    erikagrendel ·

    perfect article !!!

  27. wzzk
    wzzk ·

    great article and its very useful, congrats!

  28. deepfried_goodness
    deepfried_goodness ·

    This is one of the most informative articles yet.

  29. savi0325
    savi0325 ·

    Love the wheel chart! Thank you

  30. cc-in-paris
    cc-in-paris ·

    great article! instant text-book reference

  31. singleelderly
    singleelderly ·

    Thanks all for the likes and comments : ) And thanks @coolsigg for translating to English!

  32. mgf
    mgf ·

    great guidance!

  33. civcivli
    civcivli ·

    wow, this will really help me. thank you!

  34. istionojr
    istionojr ·

    intense article, awesome!

  35. wennie
    wennie ·

    great article! thanks a lot! :))

  36. eunicegoh
    eunicegoh ·

    A very helpful article for a lomography newbie like me!

  37. swampwater
    swampwater ·

    Thanks so much for the effort that went in to this!

  38. lwadethompson
    lwadethompson ·

    This is really helpful. Thanks a bunch.

  39. kschraer
    kschraer ·

    I was hoping something like this existed. Thanks!

  40. cryboy
  41. singleelderly
    singleelderly ·

    @cryboy great one! :)

  42. singleelderly
    singleelderly ·

    @cryboy great one! :)

  43. jm60
    jm60 ·

    But no mention of which developers was used. After all, developers for black and white films yield monochromatic results in most cases. One has to assume they were using a C41 process on the slide films to get a color result.

  44. solinvictus
    solinvictus ·

    E100SW has dominant green tones when Cross-Processed, I would prefer EPL400X; you could find both in my profile <3 great article!

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