Hand colorization is a pain, but is much worth the effort, I've finished processing the last of the latest found memories I've come across and will now take effort to colorize the images.

I do all my own development, in a bathroom in my basement, which I share with my cat. so, #diy. I'm into messing with processes to see what'll happen, often compound my own chemistry. Deal with found film quite a bit. If there's a story to be told, I'm all for developing and telling that story. Used to do E6 down there but it was too much of a pain, I develop E6 in C41 and flip the image with Dichromate halfway through the process. I've also flipped B&W using a dichromate based process.

I'm a fan of experimental and alternate processes, still working on a 60% Palladiumtype. Solarizations are always fun. Lumen prints can be stunning before fix is applied, I feel the fix sorta ruins some of the innate beauty in a Lumen print. Thinking I'm going to do another Lumen series somewhat soonish.

Honestly, my happy place is in the darkroom with some music playing, and I get better results with music playing. But I was introduced to film under those conditions. Have a backlog of film to develop at the moment.

Using 4 developers depending on what I'm developing for the Pan-X project, I'm using Acufine and ACU-1. For film under 400 ISO I use Ilfosol-3 as a slow film developer. Anything over 400 ISO gets D-76. Paper wise, always fiber based. It's more archival, feels better and looks better than RC paper.

Fully believe in a presoak in warm water for any film, wash in instant ocean because it clears hypo better.

Have processed film shot between 1932-present day and nothing so far has scared me off. Hand processing with a little extra care is the solution for old or finicky film.

Harman Direct Positive is an interesting creature, I've cut a roll down into 8.5x11s. Low ISO, uber fine grain paper. Needs to be pre-flashed and that is the only part of the. process I use an enlarger for. 3.5 seconds of visible light "primes" the paper.

The rest of the process... well, there's something to be said for self discovery.

C-22 Process as Best as it Can Be Replicated (Dev, Stop, Hardner have to be mixed in the dark)


2gm sodium tripolymetaphosphate
5ml Benzyl
85gm Sodium Metaborate
2gm Sodium Sulphite
1.6gm Potassium Bromide
5.3gm CD3
Add water to make 1000ml

Stop Bath:

20ml Glacial Acetic Acid
10gm Sodium Sulphite
Add water to make 1000ml


20ml Formaldehyde (35-45% solution)
12gm Sodium Carbonate
Add water to make 1000ml


25gm Potassium Nitrate
20gm Potassium Ferricyanide
8gm Potassium Bromide
5gm Boric Acid
1gm Disodium Tetraborate


120gm Ammonium Thiosulphate
20gm Potassium Metabisulphite
Add water to make 1000ml

Processing Instructions:

Developer should be roughly 75* F, leave film in developer for 13 minutes

Stop should be between 68-75* F, leave film in stop for 4 minutes

Hardener should be between 68-75* F, leave film in hardener for 4 minutes

Bleach should be between 68-75* F, leave film in bleach for 6 minutes

Fix should be between 68-75* F, leave film in fix for 8 minutes

This is an agitate rarely process, Maybe a couple inversions every few minutes. It's easier to over agitate C-22 than it is to under agitate C-22. As with all the recipes I post, this worked for me, I cannot guarantee it will work for you. It's pretty much the standard C-22 process. I've seen people get results with cold C-41, but I wanted accurate color.


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