Originally created for the Spread the Word Rumble, the Lomo scarf finally has it’s own knitting chart. Knit yours and keep warm today!
Hey there, and welcome to How to Make Your Very Own www.lomography.com Scarf/Table Runner/Wrap.
I’ve broken down this pattern into two main parts: the first is how I made my scarf, and the second is the chart I used to make it with. If you’ve never knitted before, there are a few terms you should know before starting: knit stitch, purl stitch, intarsia, garter stitch, and stockinette stitch. You should check out www.knittinghelp.com , as it has videos as well as step-by-step instructions for everything you should need to make this scarf.
22 stitches wide, about 130-140 rows
- Two separate colors of a bulky weight yarn. I used two skeins of Lion Brand Yarn Wool-Ease, 2 red, 1 white. (NOTE: Depending on how many yards you have per skein of yarn, and what size needles you use, your gauge will change. To ensure you have enough yarn to finish the scarf, you might want to buy an extra skein of each color.)
- Size 15 knitting needles (or size necessary to achieve desired gauge)
- Tapestry needles (for sewing up loose ends after the scarf is done)
This is your first step to knitting your scarf, AND YOU MUST DO IT. Because I’m writing this pattern assuming that some of you will want to use a different brand of yarn than I used, and I’m also assuming that some people will knit looser or tighter than me.
If you do not know what a gauge is, knittinghelp.com has some videos under the “getting started” tab.
The reason I say it is essential to do the gauge is that otherwise you will have no idea how big your scarf will turn out. My gauge was about 2 stitches per inch. Because my chart is 22 stitches wide, that means my working scarf was about 11 inches. (The finished scarf is roughly 12 inches wide by 60 inches tall—the reason for this is any knitted object will stretch when you block it. More on that later.) If your gauge is say, 5 stitches per inch, you will get a much thinner scarf—roughly 4.5 inches when knitting it, maybe 5 to six inches wide when it is blocked.
If you want your scarf as big as mine, you need to find both yarn and needles that knit up a gauge of roughly 2 stitches per inch. Simply take your stitch per inch number and use it to divide 22—that will give you a good estimate of what your width will be. Once you find the gauge you want for your scarf, congrats! You have found your yarn and needles.
Cast on 28 stitches.
Knit 4 rows.
Knit 3 stitches, begin first row of chart. Knit remaining 3 stitches.
Continue knitting the first 3 stitches of each row of the chart and knitting the remaining 3 stitches on the end.
When entire chart is worked, knit 4 rows.
Remember, you start at the bottom right-hand corner, then continue the next row at the LEFT-HAND side. Then after that row it’s back to the right, then left, all the way up.
When the scarf is knitted (hurray for you! That must have taken a while), proceed to block it. This will prevent the scarf from curling inwards. You have three options:
1) use a steamer, or a steam iron to block the scarf. Only use the steam to dampen the scarf, do not actually iron it. NOTE: if your yarn is mostly acrylic based, DO NOT use this option. Your yarn will melt.
2) Take an empty spray bottle and fill it with water. Find a soft, rubbery surface and pin down your scarf with dressmaker’s pins into the shape you want it. (Children’s play mats work nicely, and depending on how big it is this might be the best option. Otherwise knitpicks.com sells blocking boards you can use for future projects.) Spray the scarf until it is very damp. Let dry without disturbing it.
3) Using a delicate laundry bag, put your scarf in and toss it in the washing machine, using just cold water and no soap. Set the spin cycle on medium or high so that the scarf is still damp when you take it out. Pin it down in the shape you want it and let it dry naturally.
Voila! Your scarf is now wearable. If you want to hide the back side of the scarf, you can sew felt to the back. It does limit the stretchability of the scarf somewhat, and it’s tedious work, but the result is much nicer to look at.
First step, pick out a length of felt that covers the finished scarf by at least two inches on all sides. Cut the fabric if necessary. Next, fold the fabric under itself so that a smooth edge aligns a few centimeters back from the edge of the scarf.
Next, carefully sew the fabric in place about one inch back from the edge of the felt with regular sewing thread. The stitches don’t have to be precise at this point, this is just a way of stabilizing the fabric so that you can sew a more secure line about one half inch from the edge of the felt.
All the stitches were sewn by hand; the scarf was too thick for a machine in my case.