LomoChrome Purple: Super Analogue Excitement (and Some Doubts)

2013-08-14 25

The LomoChrome Purple is an amazing film! What I like the most about it is that it brings back the analogue excitement of discovering something NEW.

It’s super exciting that the LomoChrome Purple 400 120 is completely brand new, right? I feel that everyone is experimenting, watching everyone’s work, sharing and exchanging information, trying things, new things! That’s so cool!

I’m really enjoying the newness and uncertainty of this film. Feeling like you have a lot to research to achieve correct exposure or amazing effects is hilarious. That’s why this review is going to be “The Doubts Review”. I’ll launch some impressions and questions about the new film and I’ll be waiting for your answers and comments to exchange all the possible information.

First of all I have to say: I shot my first LomoChrome Purple 400 120 with Diana, N mode (shutter speed 1/60), Cloud mode (f/8), super sunny conditions.

Based on those conditions, here come my doubts:

Focus. I’m missing focus on my photos, a lot! It’s weird. I’m missing focus even with the super wide angle lens, that never fails. Were they that dirty? I don’t think so, I always keep my lenses in little bags. Although I got a “tunnel” effect that I wasn’t expecting but that looks nice… Could it be something to do with the film? Can a film unfocus a photo?

The purple How can I get lighter and brighter purple? I thought I had to overexpose the film, like when shooting Redscale ISO 50-200 film, to get nicer colors. Lomochrome Purple is also in the extended range, 100 – 400… So I shot it as ISO 100 film. But here come the doubts, have a look at this photo, it’s a double exposure! And still dark:

Should we shoot this film as ISO 100, 200 or 400 to get light purple?

I like this purple tone, some of the plants were in shadow.

The green. Should the green be light green or dark green to get light purple? I guess it affects the purple tone. So, what is the better green for best purple?

Those were the “real” colors of some of the photos:

Iphone photos & Lomochrome Purple photos.

Is green the right color to get nice purple? Or it’s better to shoot in a wheat field? Look at this photo!!! It was dried out grass, it was brown!

Sorry for the missing head, I’m a Diana’s beginner :P.

Should I have used the Diana? I don’t think so… The focus, the exposure… and the vignetting! Do you think Diana’s vignetting turn my photos darker?

Here are some amazing photos of community members shooting LomoChrome Purple 400 120mm film:

Credits: triky76, sweetyyydreams, vitality, jeahh, dop & gauthierdumonde

Some awesome LomoChrome Purple 400 35mm shots:

Credits: ddibiase, dakadev_pui, maykel, earlybird & ihave2pillows

Hey guys! What ISO did you shoot? Were you in a completely green environment or was it more brown? What cameras did you use? Did you have focus issues? Your shots are amazing, I love them! Thanks for sharing. I’m expecting your comments.

written by susielomovitz on 2013-08-14 #gear #susielomovitz #lomovitz #film #purple #120mm #diana #susie #review #momochrome #lomography


  1. susielomovitz
    susielomovitz ·

    @triky76, @sweetyyydreams, @vitality, @jeahh, @dop, @gauthierdumonde, @ddibiase, @dakadev_pui, @maykel, @earlybird and @ihave2pillows: Amazing photos my friends! Can you help me with my doubts? ;).

  2. triky76
    triky76 ·

    A mí tus fotos me encantan!!. Lo raro es que tu has disparado como si fueran iso 100 y te tendrían que haber salido lilas muy claritos. Yo dispare a iso 200 y son muy claros. Al final después de mirar mucho mis fotos y recordar donde están hechas creo que tiene que ver mas con la incidencia del sol que con el iso. Con eso he pensado lo siguiente una de las mías que tiene un morado súper intenso estaba entre arboles y casi todo era sombra y creo que dispare a iso200. en las demás el sol era súper intenso y daba de lleno y por eso son más claras. Tendría que probar el rollo que me queda pero me da cosa gastarlo ;-D

  3. kleinerkaries
    kleinerkaries ·

    I also like the experimenting part of new things, so I shot this film with two different cameras on the same day at the same location. The Holga pics also have this massive tunnel effect and are unfocused (the latter I blamed on the Holga).www.lomography.com.tr/homes/kleinerkaries/albums/1975080-ho… The Lubitel results are focussed (although I can't really focus with my Lubitel 2) but I don't like the washed out colours when you expose at 100 ISO. www.lomography.com.tr/homes/kleinerkaries/albums/1975842-lu… At the moment, I really like how the yellows come out pinkish, but the greens are to dark and sometimes almost black instead of purple. Still a lot more experimenting to do, which is quite expensive regarding the price for one roll...

  4. susielomovitz
    susielomovitz ·

    Mmm... interesting! I think I'll look for more yellow environments (fields of wheat, dried out grass) for my next roll :). @kleinerkaries

  5. guanatos
    guanatos ·

    I still have to try out mine but all this feedback is becoming very useful. Thanks @susielomovitz :)

  6. ihave2pillows
    ihave2pillows ·

    Hi Susie! Thanks for writing this article. We're all asking the same question, how best to bring out the purple/violet!? For a real infrared color film like Kodak Aerochrome, it's very important to for plants to have direct sunlight for the foliage to turn red. But it doesn't seem to hold true for Lomochrome Purple, because out of my roll of 35mm, the most saturated purple came from pictures taken A) in the shade [18764611], B) at low sun, around 6pm [18766196]; C) also important is the angle between the sun, the subject and the camera [18773437] <-- you can even see green!. As to the question of ISO, shooting iso100 on a very sunny day did lead to big contrast + some white-out [18764325], iso200 gave more intense purple, whereas the trees in iso400 are notably more dull. In addition, shooting at iso100 with a circular polarizer gave good results too [18764395]. Next time, I'd choose a cloudy overcast day to shooting Lomochrome Purple.

  7. susielomovitz
    susielomovitz ·

    WOW! Thanks @ihave2pillows! I agree! I thought overexposing and super sunny conditions were the best for this film, but after my first roll and everybodyelse shoots I've changed my mind! Thanks for your comment! :)

  8. dakadev_pui
    dakadev_pui ·

    Thank you for selected my purple photo @susielomovitz

    I have no idea about the lomochrome purple film. However I tested the film 2 time by Canon Eos 3000v (SRL) , I got something.
    I got special color :

    1.Blue becomes green,
    2. yellow becomes pink (but the lomography told pink becomes yellow...I did not get it)
    3. Red tones stay red (but you have to shoot the "real red" , you will get the red tone ,however I shoot the dark red it turn to brown , I don't know ,why?)
    example : www.lomography.com.tr/homes/dakadev_pui/albums/1975709-the-…

    4. the film keeps natural skin color quite natural.

    and I try to shoot 100,200 and 400 ISO for compared on sunnyday

    I thought overexposing on 100 ISO and I love the result of 200ISO , however I got more purple tone on 400 ISO

    example : www.lomography.com.tr/homes/dakadev_pui/photos/18780316

    I will try the purple on my LCA and I will shared you , everyone

  9. nonspecificscientific
    nonspecificscientific ·

    Amazing shots, everyone! I can't wait to get my hands on a roll of this stuff.

  10. susielomovitz
    susielomovitz ·

    Thanks for sharing your exporience @dakadev_pui!!! And it's true! Pink turns yellow. The flowers in the second iPhone photo were pink and they are yellow in the Lomochrome Purple shot :).

  11. susielomovitz
    susielomovitz ·

    Thanks all for making this article a great review! :).

  12. djramsay
    djramsay ·

    this is great, i have a roll in an Olympus intelligent twin flash 28 - 120 SLR so quite excited, has anyone tried filters yet?

  13. chilledvondub
    chilledvondub ·

    Try filters, wratten 0.99 this film is suggested to hold similar characteristics to Kodak EIR (Which is doesn't - no where near as good as Areochrome) Either that or just stop wasting your time buying over priced film and just use cheap film and mutilate it in post process or even a film soup.

  14. djramsay
    djramsay ·

    @chilledvondub where do you get your EIR processed? Do you do it yourself? I have a few rolls in the freezer but dont know where to send

  15. chilledvondub
    chilledvondub ·

    @djramsay yo, I haven't processed EIR I took mine to a lab in Brighton called Colourstream they're really good and process, scan and develop pretty much all formats of film you can get hold of. I wouldn't recommend sending the film anyway to be developed as if the roll gets scanned it can fog.

  16. istionojr
    istionojr ·

    might you still need more examples on the different ISO setting with this film:

  17. hoseun
    hoseun ·

    Great read! :D

  18. ddibiase
    ddibiase ·

    The Nikon F100 I used for my shots is a pretty good camera and you can easily expose anything (very accurately) to less than a third of an ISO stop. There was a significant difference between ISO 200 and 250 and then significant diference between 250 and 300 or 350. I guess bracketing on the same subject +/- a few EV is the only way to determine exactly what's best.. I think its a good idea to avoid overexposure in my experience.

  19. saisai
    saisai ·


  20. geckosrule
    geckosrule ·

    Where can I get a travel case like the one in your photo with the cut off head above?

  21. susielomovitz
    susielomovitz ·

    @geckosrule ohhhh... That bag was de vanity case of my mother of my grandma! Now my grandma uses it! Beautiful ah? Don't know where you can get something like that.

  22. disdis
    disdis ·

    so yellow places better than green places?

  23. susielomovitz
    susielomovitz ·

    That's what I suspect @disdis, but I have no certainty because I haven't test yellows yet :s.

  24. vivie
    vivie ·

    I wrote an article about the different ISO settings..
    It's only in german, but i think the pictures are the important part ;) First ones ISO 400, above 200 ISO and at last 100 ISO. (:

  25. susielomovitz
    susielomovitz ·

    Thanks @vivie ;).

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