Super High Contrast Black and White Images


Anyone can achieve those super high contrast black and white images with a little bit of mathematics, some understanding of light and the chemicals involved in developing film. Okay, I just reread what I wrote and I think I made it sound harder than it is. Here is the basic technique: underexpose your shot and overdevelop your film. It helps first to compose a scene in an interesting light.

The two images included in this tutorial were taken in bright sunshine beaming in on a porch. The light was coming in from the south and shining directly on a chair in one corner of the porch. There was a lot of shadows on the rest of the porch as it was late afternoon. I decided to underexpose the shot but wasn't sure how much I needed so I took two shots — the first was underexposed by two f-stops and the second by three f-stops. Underexposing means that there will be a lot of blacks and very little whites — a dark shot, too dark. But that's okay because you can bring back those whites while developing the film.

When b&w film is developed, the blacks develop first and stop developing after the first two or three minutes, the whites keep developing as long as the film is in the developer. So depending on how much you underexposed the film will determine how long you overdevelop the film. Since I underexposed by two to three f-stops I overdeveloped by half. For example, using Sprint developer, Kodak TRI-X 400 needs 10 minutes, so I developed it for 15 minutes instead to bring out the whites that were underexposed.

You get a very thick negative which requires longer processing. If you do not develop your own film you will need to explain this process to whomever you send your film to and hope they understand. There is some risk involved. If you don't develop the film long enough you'll get flat negatives and flat photos. If you develop too long the highlights (whites) will be blown out with no details. If you scan your own negatives you can adjust your image. But remember you cannot bring back details that don't exist.

I love high contrast photos, especially for still life. They work great for nudes and portraits as well. Good luck and let me know if you give it try. I'd like to see the results!

This is a post submitted by Community Member altprocess.

written by altprocess on 2009-03-07 #gear #tutorials #black-and-white #35mm #analogue #underexposed #tipster #high-contrast #darkroom #120-film #overdeveloped


  1. eyecon
    eyecon ·

    Especially the second shot is quite impressive! A good tip that will make it in my little notebook!

  2. adi_totp
    adi_totp ·

    love it!

  3. grenoouille
    grenoouille ·

    Great tip! Thanks a lot!!!

  4. kirri-joy
    kirri-joy ·

    oh brilliant. only just started developing my own black and white, so this tip is perfect. :D :D :D

  5. vicuna
    vicuna ·

    That's a great technique and the 2 shots are stunning!

  6. migueld
    migueld ·

    this is amazing, thanks for the tip!

  7. lomosexual_manboy
    lomosexual_manboy ·

    I will try this for sure. Just got some b/w film so once my LC-A is empty it's on.

  8. mandashitley
    mandashitley ·

    I don't develop my own film but I appreciate the post.

  9. rater
    rater ·

    Great tip, photos look great!

  10. adzfar
    adzfar ·

    nice tip!

  11. larslau
    larslau ·

    Nice tip! Great photos!!

  12. breakphreak
    breakphreak ·

    great material. the name of the technique is missed, however. It's called either "high key" or "low key" - I just can't remember which one.

  13. panelomo
    panelomo ·

    wow.. great tip! thanks!

  14. stouf
    stouf ·

    Very interesting ! I am actually testing E6 process at high temperatures (around 39°C instead of 38°C) and the colours are getting supersaturated, along with higher contrast !

  15. strangelilgirl
    strangelilgirl ·

    breathtaking photos and what a great tip! one of the best I've read on here, so well written and easy to follow!

  16. ipdegirl
    ipdegirl ·

    These shots are beautiful! Thanks for the tip. I was always curious how and why that worked. I'm going to try it soon.

  17. sibu_sen
    sibu_sen ·

    Does 'overdevelop' mean the same as pushing it? Want to try this, great tip!!!

  18. marielou
    marielou ·

    Fabulous pics, great tips, thanks!

  19. pangmark
    pangmark ·

    Fantastic! Didn't know about the over developing part. Watch this space!!!

  20. bheirman
    bheirman ·

    amazing shots nice work!

  21. rye
    rye ·

    And you had a great model too

  22. temcan
    temcan ·

    Nice picture, with nice tip. I'm burning the first BW roll ILFORD HP5 and try to get it. Thanks.

  23. backslashed
    backslashed ·

    Do you simply mean to say that you PUSHED the film +2 to get the contrast?

  24. altprocess
    altprocess ·

    @backslashed I underexposed by two stops and overdeveloped the film by 1.5x. So if the film was supposed to be 10 minutes in the developer, I left it in for 15 minutes.

  25. altprocess
    altprocess ·

    @backslashed Pushing and pulling film are quite different. I shot the images at the recommended box speed of 400 ISO and then shot the images at two stops below (meter stated f8, shot at f16 for example). When pushing film you simply set your camera at 400 ISO for 100 ISO film and the in camera meter correctly exposes the film for that ISO. You would not necessarily be over or under-exposing when pushing or pulling film.

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