A tip on overexposing a little bit more on redscale to get interesting colors and tones.
Those of us who have tried redscale film may have had our first roll looking like this even though we thought we correctly exposed the shot:
I know I have tossed many a negative in frustration — my photo didn’t look like the box. What did I do wrong? Not much, my Lomo LC-A+ shots are beautiful in redscale.
Why could I not get the same results with my SLR or other manual cameras? I searched the online communities and people said: “Go Lower!” Wait…what? What they meant was go to a lower ISO setting or treat the film as if it were one or two ISO lower than it is rated for on the label. So for instance, Lomography Redscale 100 could be treated like it was ISO 50 or even 25.
I tried it out on my Lubitel 166+ and loved the results. Suddenly, greens and yellows were more present. Now for those of you who have shot a Lubitel 166+ using the guides you would normally shoot film rated ISO 25 at the point between the aperture marks of 4.5 & 5.6 as suggested in the manual, but you may not want your Depth of Field that shallow. I didn’t for my landscape shots. So I balanced the equation and kept using the Aperture mark for ISO 100 and instead exposed my film 2 speeds slower. For example, Instead of shooting an ocean shore shot at Aperture between f/11 and f/8 and 1/250 of a second, I subtracted two speeds for the steps between ISO 100 – ISO 25, i.e. 50 (-1) & 25 (-1) = -2. So the shot was taken same aperture as before with the speed of 1/60 of a second.
Here are some recent results:
Sometimes, with the right conditions I get extra colors out of my rescale:
So sum it up, for some interesting new colors and tones out of your redscale, shoot it as low ISO as you can. I tried ISO 25 but perhaps you can to push it even farther.