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Rad Redscales: Double the Redscale

Do you like double exposures with a partner? Do you like redscale film? Read on to learn about a cool trick my friend @istionojr taught me when we did doubles together recently!

istionojr and I have been friends on Lomography.com for a long time, but when he approached me awhile ago to do a film swap, I was excited and honored. I had a roll of generic 400 ISO color negative film I had shot and not developed, so I mailed it to him in Indonesia right away, but when he let me know he received it, he told me he was going to do something very cool with it that I had never thought of: he was going to double-redscale it. Essentially, he was going to do a DIY redscale conversion of the film I had shot and double expose through the back of the film. Nifty, right?

Essentially, all you need are the standard DIY redscale tools:

  • A roll of film (in this instance, one your partner has shot normally)
  • A darkroom bag or lightproof room or even a jacket you’ve turn inside-out
  • Scissors

Detailed instructions for single-roll redscaling can be found at this excellent Tipster posted by casperxd

Shooting the first layer (the “front”) of the film should be done in accordance to the ISO rating of the film, and the redscale portion should be shot at about 2 stops less in order for the second exposure to compensate, just like you would your own DIY redscale film. So, in my case, the film I shot was 400 ISO in my ActionSampler, and istionojr shot it after redscaling it at 100 ISO in his Lomo LC-A+. I would recommend films from 200 ISO (50 ISO for second exposure) to 800 ISO (200 ISO for second exposure). Find yourself a partner and get double-redscaling! I think you’ll be pleased with the hybrid color/redscale results.

written by nation_of_pomation

8 comments

  1. istionojr

    istionojr

    very detail tipster Adrian, awesome! it has been great having a doubles with you, we have to do more doubles later on. :)

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  2. aguillem

    aguillem

    @istionojr , How did you align the frames when loading in your LC-A?
    I was thinking about doing the same, so I would mark the frame when loading the 1st time, so there would be e reference for the redscale loading.
    But @nation_of_pomation dodn't plan that, so I guess you didn't have any reference!?

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  3. psyhe

    psyhe

    this is such a wonderful ideea. I love the way photography / lomography brings people together :)

    the results are pretty awesome, too!

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  4. istionojr

    istionojr

    @aguillem I was randomly aligned the film, and let the rest following rules no. 8. ;D
    I still don't know how to fit the right sprocket lock for doubles, to make the exact frame for the first shot and the second one.
    For the example;
    1. Doubles without overlapping exposure: http://www.lomograph(…)istionojr-1
    2. Doubles within overlapping exposure:
    http://www.lomograph(…)-adi_totp-2
    That both doubles, I was align the sporcket randomly. I may call it luck is exists in here, or you can contact personally @hodachrome it's because his doubles amazingly are exact frame.
    Hope it helps!

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  5. aguillem

    aguillem

    @istionojr I've an idea to align the frames, but I didn't try yet. If it works I think I'll write a tipster.

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  6. aguillem

    aguillem

    So I asked because I thought you could have a simpler/better way to do it!

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  7. istionojr

    istionojr

    @aguillem I haven't find a better way yet. I've been trying with some trick like put in the same hole of film sprocket using lc-a+ advance wheel but it won't make sure I'll get the exact exposure. Would be great if you could find how to align the frame, let me know it then.

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  8. aguillem

    aguillem

    @istionojr There are many difficulties if you want to make special things. I don't know about the LC-A cause I don't have one, but I guess it's like the Fisheye.
    For instance the Sprocket Rocket allow totally free advance, so it's possible to align the film, then to put it in the take-up spool. But the frame counter doesn't work when the back is open...
    Also, I want to make the 1st and 2nd exposure with different cameras.
    And to expose both sides of the film (color and redscale) we need to cut the end of the film, so we can't really rely on the sprocket holes...

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