Ever wonder how photographers like Edward Weston were able to get super high contrast black and white prints? It wasn't all in the printing, it wasn't all in the negative, and it wasn't all in the camera. You need all three and a wee bit of mathematics.
Anyone can achieve those super high contrast black and white images with a little bit of mathematics, some understanding of light and the chemicals involved in developing film. Okay, I just reread what I wrote and I think I made it sound harder than it is. Here is the basic technique: underexpose your shot and overdevelop your film. It helps first to compose a scene in interesting light. The two images attached to this tip were taken in bright sunshine beaming in on a porch. The light was coming in from the south and shining directly on a chair in one corner of the porch. There was a lot of shadows on the rest of the porch as it was late afternoon. I decided to underexpose the shot but wasn’t sure how much I needed so I took two shots, the first shot was underexposed by two f/stops and the second by 3 f/stops. Underexposing means that there will be a lot of blacks and very little whites—a dark shot, too dark. But that’s okay because you can bring back those whites while developing the film.
When black and white film is developed the blacks develop first and stop developing after the first two or three minutes, the whites keep developing as long as the film is in the developer. So depending on how much you underexposed the film will determine how long you overdevelop the film. Since I underexposed by two to three f/stops I overdeveloped by half. For example, using Sprint developer, Kodak TRI-X 400 needs 10 minutes, so I developed it for 15 minutes instead to bring out the whites that were underexposed. You get a very thick negative which requires longer processing. If you do not develop your own film you will need to explain this process to whomever you use and hope they understand. There is some risk involved. If you don’t develop the film long enough you’ll get flat negatives and flat photos. If you develop too long the highlights (whites) will be blown out with no details. If you scan your own negatives you can adjust your image. But remember you cannot bring back details that don’t exist.
I love high contrast photos especially for still life. They work great for nudes and portraits as well. Good luck and let me know if you give it try. I’d like to see the results.
20 comments
eyecon
Especially the second shot is quite impressive! A good tip that will make it in my little notebook!
adi_totp
love it!
grenoouille
Great tip! Thanks a lot!!!
kirri-joy
oh brilliant. only just started developing my own black and white, so this tip is perfect. :D :D :D
vicuna
That's a great technique and the 2 shots are stunning!
migueld
this is amazing, thanks for the tip!
lomosexual_manboy
I will try this for sure. Just got some b/w film so once my LC-A is empty it's on.
mandashitley
I don't develop my own film but I appreciate the post.
rater
Great tip, photos look great!
adzfar
nice tip!
larslau
Nice tip! Great photos!!
breakphreak
great material. the name of the technique is missed, however. It's called either "high key" or "low key" - I just can't remember which one.
panelomo
wow.. great tip! thanks!
stouf
Very interesting ! I am actually testing E6 process at high temperatures (around 39°C instead of 38°C) and the colours are getting supersaturated, along with higher contrast !
strangelilgirl
breathtaking photos and what a great tip! one of the best I've read on here, so well written and easy to follow!
ipdegirl
These shots are beautiful! Thanks for the tip. I was always curious how and why that worked. I'm going to try it soon.
sibu_sen
Does 'overdevelop' mean the same as pushing it? Want to try this, great tip!!!
marielou
pangmark
Fantastic! Didn't know about the over developing part. Watch this space!!!
bheirman