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The Big Ferrania Solaris 200 Review: Cross it, Redscale it, Do Whatever You Want!

I ordered myself a big bunch of Ferrania Solaris 200 films. The films I got have only 12 pictures per roll (must be the reason why they were so cheap), and since then, I always use them for testing. I did nearly everything to this films (overexposing, underexposing, pushing, pulling, redscale, cross-processing in E6), and I now want to present you the results.

For experimenting with different settings, I used a Canon EOS 300. It has the ISOs: 25, 32, 40, 50, 64, 80, 100, 125, 160, 200, 250, 320, 400, 500, 640, 800, 1025, 1600, 2000, 2500, 3200 (at least, these are the ones I tried).

Shot on ISO 100, pushed +1

I used more or less a normal setting for this film. Underexposed it one step, and then pushed it. It’s a nice color negative film, which can be very colorful on sunny days.

Shot on ISO 400, xpro in E6

As we all know, color negative films loose some ISO when cross-processed in E6. And with underexposing the film one step, the pictures should be very dark. That’s how they look like: a bit dark, and a bit pink from the cross-processing, but surprisingly not too dark. I had much worse results with othe color negative film in E6, shot on normal setting.

Shot on ISO 64, xpro in E6

The white gets very pink with the cross-processing. But ISO 64 is a good setting for the right exposure.

Shot on ISO 100, xpro in E6

Results are very similar to the ISO 64 setting.

Exposure bracket from ISO 25 to 400

Of course, you can get the images brighter or darker with the scanner, but I always use the first setting the scanner generated with the software. The result is, that even when overexposed for three steps, it still shows good pictures. Remember that the picture with ISO 200 is the normal light situation.

Exposure bracketing from ISO 25 to 500

Something that makes this film really interesting for cross-processing it that it shows such a big exposure range in E6!

Redscaling on ISO 200

The results show a strong red hue, but maybe it’s better to overexpose it, as the pictures are very dark.

Redscaling on ISO 100

The pictures resulting from this setting are still a bit dark.

Redscaling on ISO 50

This one is a good setting for doing redscales with this film.

Redscaling on ISO 64, cross-processed in E6

I really like these pictures! It’s not a normal red and black, but a bit more pale from cross-processing.

Redscaling on ISO 200, cross-processed in E6

Exposure bracketing for Redscales from ISO 25 to 400

Seems like I mixed the ISO 25 and 32 pictures, but maybe the lightmeter was just leading to different settings. But for sure I can say that I like these settings most.

Exposure bracket from ISO 200 to 3200

My opinion is, that this is a film which should rather be overexposed than underxposed. The pictures are getting very, very dark at this point.

ISO 200 cross-processed in E6, pulled -1

These pictures did not come out, as they were all too dark.

Here are some more of the different pictures I shot with this film:

written by shoujoai


  1. gibri


    great experiment!

    almost 3 years ago · report as spam
  2. adam_g2000


    very thorough, very good for beginners!

    almost 3 years ago · report as spam
  3. bloomchen



    almost 3 years ago · report as spam
  4. jawatembak


    thank you!

    almost 3 years ago · report as spam
  5. antibiotyx


    very nice review. used an expired solaris once and absolutely love its sharpness and contrast. thanks to @novakmisi

    almost 3 years ago · report as spam
  6. presidents


    I love this review! It's so extensive and precise. I also love this film, so it was nice to come across this before I decide to buy some more of it!

    almost 3 years ago · report as spam
  7. shoujoai


    thanks @presidents @antibiotyx @jawatembak @bloomchen @adam_g2000 @gibri :) it's really nice to see what one negative film can do ^_^

    almost 3 years ago · report as spam

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This is the original article written in: English. It is also available in: 한국어, Türkçe & Português.