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Lomo LC-A Refurbished - My LCA, My second love!

My first LCA series camera was the LCA+ I bought from Lomoasia.com. After going for a few Lomo outings, I was "poisoned" by my friend's LCA and started looking out to buy a refurb LCA.

Finally, I bought the coveted LCA refurb and started shooting with it. What I like about refurbed LCAs are that they are built like a tank! It feels more “solid” and “meaty” compared to my LCA+. It also has a aperture selector switch whereby one can select the desired Aperture setting at a fixed shutter speed of 1/60s. Of course, you can also leave it at “A” mode whereby exposure is automatically set by the camera.

Film wise, LCA can set ASA settings ranging from 25 to 400, quite different from LCA+’s 100 to 1600. Of course, one can use 800 or 1600 speed films if one don’t mind getting some overexposed photos. I read in one of the tipsters that 800 speed films can be shot at 400 speed on LCA. But I don’t recommend trying 1600 speed films.

After a few rolls, I begun to feel the limitations of the LCA. First off, it can’t do MX without some DIY modding! As I am a DIY idiot, I left the LCA as is. MX is so much fun on the LCA+! Related to MX is the ability to fit accessories such as the wide angle lens and the splitzer. Takes out another element of fun of the LCA+. Lastly, it is also quite challenging to do long exposure as there is no cable release slot.

One advantage of the LCA though, is the ability to set 25 or 50 speed. I use 50 speed setting when shooting redscale films as I kinda dislike the too rich and intense red/orange tones. I just wanna get the vintage, cool tones.

In conclusion, the LCA is now my second love, relegated to one lonely corner of my dry cabinet. My first love remains the cool and amazing LCA+!

written by coolsigg

7 comments

  1. holydarkyfied

    holydarkyfied

    In my sense a LC-A shouldn't be your camera for long exposures and so on, if you want to go for very long exposures go for a film SLR or a camera like the Smena Symbol wich is pretty much like an SLR unless it is not geared up with a through the lens viewfinder. You'll tell me it is the point of a SLR to see exactly what the lens sees, but I consider my SLR as my big thing that has all possible settings, my technical camera. LC-A's and so on aren't made to do long exposures, at least old ones have aperture control for the flash, I can't imagine how it is to shoot with a flash mounted when using a LC-A+ with no aperture control... Maybe I used too much my single lens reflex and that explicates what I'm saying. Anyway, LC-A is for chilling out, only thinking about focus, rangefinders (like my Smena Symbol) for faster shooting (Symbols makes your aperture fit in some way your film iso, you only have to choose your shutter speed which is coupled with how the light is, sunny and so on, then you have to focus, it's a great camera by the way, but do not buy it from Lomography seriously, to get it as refurbished and with a warranty isn't worth the 70$ you pay in extra. Go on eBay.) and SLRs (like my Minolta x-370) are for more serious shooting. When you do long exposures, you don't want to get it messy and all. Go for SLR + Tripod + cable. Also, by serious shooting I mean like black and white dramatic photography or taking pictures of things you do not want to get like 2 or 3 photos of the event to come out. As I think of 2 or 3 photos to be okay, I think about Holgas. Use Holga if you want to shoot a lot less seriously than with a LC-A or if you want to shoot and get very very unexpected results. Anyway, rangefinders and SLRs to learn something like what you can really do with shutter speed and aperture and use these techniques, point and shoot like LC-A to immortalize fractions of seconds in a very smooth way. Ho yeah, I have to say that I will do a DIY mod to my LC-A to get the multi-exposure as soon as I can, I've got to buy super glue first hahaha, but I'll do it. I don't think I will kill the camera. I got it on eBay, it won't kill me if I murder the camera, but hey, LC-As are pricey, damn they are... Anyway, everything I've wrote should be forgotten because these are like rules, and you have to forget about them when you're a Lomographer. But I don't consider myself as a pure lomographer... More of an amateur photograph who really likes film and who just like to chill out and whatever with the Lomo thing, it may modify my point of view of photography... Have a nice day and sorry for this very very very long comment, hope we'll still be friends xD Good Bye :)

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  2. coolsigg

    coolsigg

    @holydarkyfied: No worries dude. I welcome all comments. Thanks for sharing your thoughts on Lomography & Photography! :)

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  3. yawn

    yawn

    I always set the ISO smaller than the film I use, most negative films (including positive films developped in C-41) can handle 2x or 4x too much light without problem, you can load a 1600 ISO film and set your camera to 400 and not notice the difference. The reason why I overexpose my films is that the LC-A tends (at least mines) to underexpose. When in doubt it's always better to feed the negative films with too much light, rather than not enough. Not enough means that in some areas you won't have any reaction at all. If the film reacts too much you can still correct during the printing process.

    almost 3 years ago · report as spam
  4. coolsigg

    coolsigg

    @yawn: thanks for the comments. i guess the fun part about LCAs are their quirkiness. So far, my light meter seems to be working more or less accurately. However, will keep your advice in mind next time I need to load that asa 1600 film! :)

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  5. yawn

    yawn

    @coolsigg: works best with amateur films than some professional films, because amateur-targeted films (like kodak gold, fuji superia...) are meant to be used with unaccurate cameras, and therefore have a better tolerance. i generally use fuji superia or lomography 800 iso films, with my lc-a set to 400, and almost never had noticeably overexposed pictures. another trick i use to avoid underexposure is placing my finger on the light measuring cell as i take a picture (when i'm facing the sun or a spotlight, or for pictures of snow).

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  6. yawn

    yawn

    so my advice for your 1600 iso film is: use it under light conditions that regularly make your lc-a underexpose, such as a concert.

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  7. saidseni

    saidseni

    It is very easy to make MX with the LC-A without any modification. I found that out after having the camera for 10 years!! :D

    about 2 years ago · report as spam

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This is the original article written in: English. It is also available in: Deutsch.