How to Tame your Lomography X-Pro 200

10

In my early days of using this film, I rarely get good results because I didn't know how to treat it. I didn't know how to tame it, so the result is so grainy and unsatisfying. So now I will give a quick tips how to use your Lomography X-pro!

Morning!

1. Play with The ISO setting!
Since this is a ISO 200 film, you have to play with ISO! Push it to 400 if you shooting something bright or perhaps to 800 if you think your object is too bright. Set the ISO to 200 if you shooting indoor without using flash.

Credits: adi_totp

2. Use Color Flash!
This is an unfair tip but this is for your own good. Try yellow filter flash to really maximize this film! Because this film yields yellow results. I think this film really loves yellow even that yellow could turn into orange or greenish!

Credits: adi_totp

3. Use it outdoor!
Obvious tip! Your Lomography X-pro 200 loves the sun but don’t shoot the sun directly because it will overexpose your shot. Take it and shoot some outdoor activity! The film loves outdoor!

Credits: adi_totp

These are some basic quickie tips! For more information you check this article

Cheers!

The new Lomography X-Pro Slide 35mm film is made from the original Agfa RSX 200 emulsion. If you want whacked out colours, huge contrast, and insane saturation, this film is for you. See our selection of Lomography films here.

written by adi_totp on 2013-01-15 in #gear #tipster

10 Comments

  1. coolsigg
    coolsigg ·

    i think the emulsion has also changed somewhat since it was first introduced. Initially, it was a garish yellowish green with coarse grain. I hated it, to be honest. Nowadays, it's more toned down but still gives saturated colors when xpro'ed. :)

  2. istionojr
    istionojr ·

    xpro 200 cobain underwater make krab di begimana ya jadinya.

  3. etxenike
    etxenike ·

    Erm... do you know what pushing means?

  4. adi_totp
    adi_totp ·

    @etxenike setting the ISO/ASA rate higher than before. Example if the film is ISO 100 then you "push" it to 200,400 or even 800. :D

  5. mrdat
    mrdat ·

    @adi_totp Isn't it only "Pushing" film when you actually Push process it too? Otherwise it's just rating it at 400 in the camera and just overexposing the film.

    Also, Just because it's "200ISO" film, doesn't mean you HAVE to push it. Maybe because it's "Lomography X-Pro 200" that you have to push it to 400.
    Do I have to "push" Kodak KodaColor 200? What about Fuji Superia 200?

  6. etxenike
    etxenike ·

    @adi_totp No, that is just underexposing. What you are doing is just underexposing. Pushing means processing the film as if it was a higher ISO than it is (longer development time). It can be done the same number of stops as the underexposure or not, giving different results.
    What do you get when you push? More light in your photo (and more grain and usually contrast too, depending on the emulsion), the exact opposite of what you´re saying here.

    Of course, it´s not something you do to a single shot, you do it to the whole roll (unless you process your own film and are willing to go to the extra work of cutting the roll).

    Now, not all labs are ok with push processing, even if it really is not a problem for them. Some charge you extra for it. Ask first.

    As Mr Dat said, you don´t have to push, pull, or change the ISO. I don´t know what camera you shot this film on, but if you shoot manual, you adjust the exposure as you want. Lightmeters are useful tools, unless the lighting is really tricky (with a backlit subject or great differences between highlights and shadows), trust it. It will adjust (or tell you to) for the light. If the light changes the metering will change as well. Of course you can chose to take the metering just as a reference and not use the recommended exposition, in order to get more or less light on your subject. After all, the meter just gives you cold data for you to use in any way you prefer.

    So, if you are using ISO 200 film or whatever ISO film and your subject is in brighter light than the subject on your previous shot, just don´t use the same shutter speed or aperture as before.

    If you let your camera make all the decisions, what difference is there with shooting digital? ;)

  7. adi_totp
    adi_totp ·

    @etxenike thanks for the correction :) What I'm really trying to say is underexposing and again, thanks for the information. I really learned from it. Nice to meet you.

  8. adi_totp
    adi_totp ·

    @mrdat yes sorry for the wrong information. What I'm really trying to say is underexposing and not Push. Thanks for the correction :)

  9. etxenike
    etxenike ·

    @adi_totp You´re welcome. Mixing those terms can really confuse some people, specially those that are just learning.

    Also, I have to reiterate you don´t have to underexpose a shot like you described. You can, of course, if what you want is a darker photo, but you don´t have to. In fact, there´s hardly anything you "have to" do in photography ;) (except putting film in the camera, pressing the shutter button and developing the film).

    Let me try and use an example of how a lightmeter works. First, in case anyone reading doesn´t know this, ISO is a number related to film speed. The higher the number, the more sensitive the film is to light (the more it will react to light). Those numbers are not written in stone. Film has some latitude, which means you can treat it as a range of film speeds and it will give you decent results. The box speed is the one the manufacturer thought was the best.
    So, on to the example.
    Let´s say I´m taking a portrait outside and it´s overcast. I´m using 200 ISO film and I have the camera´s lightmeter set to 200 ISO as well. The meter will tell me a combinations of aperture and shutter speed that (according to the lightmeter´s manufacturer) will give me the "best" results for that light (or if I have the camera on auto it will just choose it the moment I release the shutter).
    A moment later the clouds move and the sun shines on my subject. The camera will realize there is more light and tell me to pick a faster shutter speed or a smaller aperture, and that shot will look almost like the previous one.
    If I were to follow your advise and change the ISO setting, the photo with the brighter light would actually end up looking darker than the other one. If you want that, great, but it´s certainly not something you "have to" do.

    Now, if you have tried this and it didn´t work as in my example, your camera´s lightmeter is faulty.

    PS: this is all under "easy" lighting, there are some very tricky lighting situations when a lightmeter can´t be left to its own devices, but those would probably warrant a tipster of their own.

  10. bebopbebop
    bebopbebop ·

    @etxenike woaa nice explanation! thank you, i learnt a lot from it! (:

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