No photos this time, 'cause I've just bought this new camera of mine. Yeeeeeees yes yes yes, I promised to myself and to everybody else that THIS IS THE END, no more new cameras!! ;) ;) ;) But You know the lomography phenomenon. ;) When You start once… You cannot restrain Yourself - and can't stop buying new stuff, films, cameras and so on, hahahhaa. ;)
No photos this time, ‘cause I’ve just bought this new camera of mine. Yeeeeeees yes yes yes, I promised to myself and to everybody else that THIS IS THE END, no more new cameras!! ;) ;) ;) But You know the lomography phenomenon. ;) When You start once… You cannot restrain Yourself – and can’t stop buying new stuff, films, cameras and so on, hahahhaa. ;)
So this time I was looking (again ;) ) for some 16mm microfilm based machine. And I found this:
a very small (not as small as Diana Baby is, but still pretty cool stuff) the Minolta 110 Zoom SLR Mark II – and I already went for some LOMO-walk with it, hahaha.
The camera looks very ‘pro’, You know, but works with 110 films and it’s as small as a hand-palm. :) Which roxx big time. ;)
The device has automatic measurement of light (in the shutter’s way. The speed I mean. You realize I dunno the technical stuff, so I hope I didn’t mess anything here, hahah). All the other stuff is being made manually (which I like actually, as I’m the oldschool Smena guy, so I got used to it). That means – the distance (in feet and meters) and the second ‘light thingie’ – 3,5; 4; 5,6; 8; 11; 16. They wrote in the instruction that for the 100-125ISO film You set 11 for full sun, 5,6 for hazy sun and 4 for heavy clouds or indoors. So that’s what You have to remember about, if You buy this 110 machine. Ah, as for the distance setting, the camera is SLR, so You can see everything in the viewfinder however I can’t get used to it somehow, so I preferred to make is like on Smena – with my own judgment (we will see what will come from it btw, although on Smena usually I’m pretty good with this trick ;) ).
The camera has also zoom (not any sh*tty digital zoom, like on digital cameras, hehehe).
Some tricky part is – You can’t test it without a film inside. So first I thought it’s broken. But after some longer searching in Internet – finally I found the required text: “On the automatic setting the camera will not operate properly without a film cartridge installed. When testing the camera without film, one can overcome this difficulty by pushing in a metal rod inside the film chamber on the right hand side. (This must be done before the shutter is cocked)” so I’m letting You guyz know about it, to spare You investigating and the anxiety.
Also people write, one shouldn’t make any tests without batteries put inside. Like another guy wrote on the Internet: “If you ever come across an old manual advance camera and it seems like the lever is stuck, DON’T FORCE IT. Change the battery and press the shutter button. That’s right, many of them lock up when the battery dies. You’re in luck with this one, it takes two A76 batteries that are still available”. So I wasn’t even checking the machine out before buying new batteries (they were easy to get btw, which is important).
And the last thing – the second wheel: modes of work.
L is for LOCK the shutter (just in case).
A stands for AUTOMATIC and this is a typical mode of work with this machine. In this mode the camera measures the light automatically. And – like I said before – You must have a film inside.
X is for work with a flash-lamp.
B finally, for typical BULB mode (the shutter is being opened as long as You keep the key pressed).
So – I’ve just tested the device an hour ago or sommit, so I can’t tell You anything more nor show any photos yet. I used the Lomography RedScale Lobster film anyway. It’s 200 ISO, so should be OK. But we will see, of course. ;)
At the moment it seems like a good camera for 110 format’s lovers. Also, it was far cheaper than the Pentax Auto 100 (both of them I bought on our equivalent of ebay).
OK, that would be all for today. KEEP THE 110 FILM ALIVE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! :)